Step-by-step: fitting a toilet seat

Step-by-step: fitting a toilet seat

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For many non-DIY people, changing the toilet seat does not make sense. However, rest assured, if this manipulation does not seem easy to you, it is less complicated than you fear. Let's see the preliminaries that the installation of a toilet seat requires. Before buying a toilet seat, also called a toilet seat, there are a few parameters to check. Indeed, if there is a multitude of colors on the market, there are also many differences. If your toilets are stamped NF (French Standardization), then choose an NF toilet seat, which will normally assure you of a perfect adaptability of the toilet seat chosen to your toilet (dimensions, resistance to shocks and to load factors, but also to chemicals, resistance to time, reaction to fire, etc.). So many things you won't have to worry about. If your toilets are not NF standardized, because they are old or simply that you know nothing about it, it is better to take some precautions before purchasing. You must first remove the old seat and take some measures so as not to find yourself in embarrassment. But let's see this by following the steps. Difficulty : easy Cost : from 20 € to very expensive Tools required : - no Optional tools : - an open-end wrench or an adjustable wrench depending on the model

Step 1 - Remove the old toilet seat

Under the hinges of the bezel, there are two nuts, one on each side. They are either plastic and can be unscrewed by hand, or stainless steel, and may require the use of an open-end wrench or adjustable wrench. Depending on the location and its cleanliness, it could be cautious to don rubber "mappa" gloves. When the nuts are made of steel, it is possible that they are rusted, in this case, a slip of oil the day before could be of great help.
Unscrew until you remove the old nut. The thread is long and the operation may be longer than it seems. There may be steel and plastic washers, remove everything.
Here we are, you've just removed the nuts and washers. You usually just need to lift the assembly to release the old telescope. Measure the distance between the two holes and write it down. Here are the measurements that could be useful.
Armed with these ratings, you can go shopping.

Step 2 - Inspect and control the content

Even if it makes sense, make an inventory of accessories. First surprise! This non-standard toilet seat - chosen with no consideration other than that of its color - is made up of steel fixing rods. As a result, rust may settle there, which will make life difficult for us in a future exchange. It's time to unpack the goods and look at the assembly plan (normally delivered with). Obviously, there are much simpler models, such as the one we disassembled that only has a plastic nut.

Step 3 - The blank assembly

Doing a blank montage, in other words, a simulation of the montage, will allow you to understand the assembly mechanism and to realize immediately if you have in your possession all the necessary elements. There may be a protective film on some parts, remove them. Properly installed on a chair, with the plan in front of your eyes and an adequate work plan, this little harmless control will help you to overcome any difficulties of understanding that you may encounter during assembly. Tell yourself that it is better to meet them now rather than kneeling in the toilet, head in the toilet!
Slide the curved pin into the hinges. It is this axis that will make the toilet seat integral with the toilet bowl, it will be fixed and immobilized thereafter on the toilet bowl.
There are many types of mechanisms, examine it carefully. This rotates on itself to adjust the spacing of the center distance of the toilet bowl, and the front-rear position of the toilet seat. Indeed, for the same spacing, this model allows two positions of the flap, a position called "at 10:10", and another "at 20:20", to advance or retract the flap. Flat, if you are forced to use an extreme position outside (the most apart) or interior (the least apart) you will not be able to adjust the front-rear position of the seat.
We will use the cardboard packaging box for the toilet seat to simulate the rim of the bowl. First of all, there should never be contact between metal and ceramic, never. Here two large rubber washers will buffer and protect the ceramic.
Ditto for the underside, there must be rubber or plastic washers. If there is a pyramid side as in the photo, the smaller side will be oriented so as to lock in the hole.
On this model, spacers are provided to press the rubber seal. On some bowls, access to the nuts (steel, stainless steel or plastic) is not easy, and removing the nut with a spacer may be more practical. It's not mandatory, but since it comes with it, you might as well use it.
Next come steel washers. They will come to bear on the spacer or the rubber seal. Their presence is justified by the fact that the clamping nut is made of steel. Failure to do so could damage the spacer or rubber washer when tightened.
Then the nut that we will tighten using a plastic key as shown in the photo below.
No need to tighten, it is a blank assembly.
This is what the montage should look like. You saw how it had to be done, now doing it in the toilet is going to be a breeze. You are ready) ?

Step 4 - The assembly, the real one!

Repeat the previous steps one by one. First difficulty, the spacing is at its maximum, it will be impossible to move back or advance the flap. But it fits, phew.
Second difficulty, the threaded rod is too short to use the spacer. So we mount the rubber seal, then the washer and finally the nut.
The plastic key that was used to tighten the two nuts? In order not to lose it in a forgetting box, we decide to tape it under the WC. In case of major cleaning, its presence in the vicinity will facilitate disassembly and save you some research.
Now you just have to wait for the urge to try it.